The Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC) guarantees responsible practices across the jewelry industry.

The RJC is an industry-funded organization that certifies jewelry businesses against responsible business standards. While certification can promote better practices, industry-led oversight also creates potential conflicts of interest.

The RJC’s handling of Russian diamond producer Alrosa illustrates these concerns.

Following Russia’s invasion of Ukraine in 2022, the RJC faced criticism over its response to Alrosa, which had previously been represented on its board. As international sanctions were imposed, major jewelry businesses, including Pandora and businesses within Richemont and Kering, announced their withdrawal from the RJC amid concerns about its handling of the situation. Alrosa subsequently suspended its own membership.

The episode raised important questions about the RJC’s governance, independence and capacity to respond promptly when ethical concerns involve influential industry participants.

Certification against defined standards has value, but it should not be interpreted as a comprehensive guarantee of responsible conduct.

The bottom line: The Alrosa controversy demonstrated why industry-led certification requires robust independent oversight, transparent decision-making and clear accountability.

Responsibility should be demonstrated through consistent action, not certification alone.